Making Brown
The Basics of Brown
Usually for eyebrows we want a shade of brown (light, medium, or dark) - so when we have a color too far off the preferred brown spectrum we need to alter it.
Based off our complementary colors, the following would be true:
To correct Red brows, use Green.
To correct Blue brows, use Orange.
To correct Purple brows, use Yellow.
The inverse of each of these is also true!
For a Green brow, you would want to neutralize it with Red.
In permanent cosmetics we most commonly see colors that have faded to orange/red (warm) or blue/grey (cool).
The intensity of the warm or cool tone will vary greatly, so your correction plan will need to be adjusted as well.
You can neutralize a color more or less by the proportion of the complementary color that you use, for example if you have an orange-red brow that you still want some warmth to remain you would use less green tone to correct it, that way you don’t cancel out all the red.
Let's see how proportions affect creating brown!
You can create different shades of brown by changing how much green or red is in your mix – the more red, the warmer the brown, the more green, the cooler the brown.
Having a larger proportion of blue will create a more cool, grey brown, but when we add a larger proportion of orange we move over into a warm brown.
When yellow and purple are mixed we get a neutral, or cool brown (depending upon the proportions of yellow and purple), with a larger proportion of purple the mix quickly becomes overpowered. To change purple to brown you need a larger proportion of yellow.
Remember when we talked about how some colors are stronger than others?
When we look at how changing the proportions of each of our colors changes the outcome of our mix we can really see which colors are stronger than others!
There are so many possibilities of mixes, which can be overwhelming when you're trying to help someone with their pmu.
All of these iterations have been calculated for you in the advanced color guide section of the SofTap App (over 1200 combinations), if you haven't downloaded the app yet (it's free!) and you plan on doing corrections, get to downloading it now!
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